Showing posts with label saw. Show all posts
Showing posts with label saw. Show all posts

Porter Cable PC270 table saw

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Heres a less-than-scientific review of my new saw. As far as Im concerned, you cant co wrong with Porter Cable tools.
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Solving the Craftsman table saw miter slot problem

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Make a table saw sled for your Craftsman table sawEvery so often I get an email from someone asking me how to make a table saw sled for his Craftsman saw. The problem is that they have grooves that are different than regular miter slots. They look more like t-track systems. Naturally, this makes it hard to construct runners for various sleds you might want to build.
Felix Pitre has solved the problem with this solution. He made snug-fitting runners by cutting them out with his router table. Thanks Felix. Ill refer people to your pics from now on!
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Update: Just heard from Dan Johns over on Facebook who solved the problem this way, allowing him to drop the sled in rather than threading it in from the ends:
I used my Dremel to grind off the tabs that turned those miter slots into a t-shape. There were only 2 tabbed constrictions per slot; one at the front of the table, and the other at the rear, so a little grinding on the left and right of each of those two areas smoothed the slot out for a regular rectangular hardwood runner.
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Traditional Saw Bench

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 A trip to the local timber yard over the weekend led me to find a cheap budget range of timber. Four 3m lengths of 2"x2" (50mm x 50mm) B grade Pine at a little over £1 per meter. I had to cut each 3m piece into 1m + 2m to fit it in the car. While the timber is less than straight and quite knotty, its (hopefully) perfect for me to build my long awaited saw bench. I have been wanting a decent saw bench for ages to cut stock to rough length outside using my panel saws.  It will also serve to chop mortises on while sitting down and as a workshop stool.
Some online research led me to the following sources of information: here, here and here .
I figured I would follow the same basic traditional design using slightly different joints and measurements with the entire thing made from 2"x2" timber. The whole project is basically an exercise in precision sawing practice, thank god for my new tenon saw.While the saw bench is a tool, I wanted to approach it almost as if it were a piece of furniture to improve my overall skills. Generally people talk about knocking together a quick saw bench but this project took me a few days mostly because I was taking my time to do things right. I can see why nearly all hand tool woodworkers end up building their own Roubo style work benches, this saw bench is like an insight to what might be involved on a (much) smaller scale.
Edge jointing the four 1m lengths to make the top - lots of squeeze out. Im using PVA glue (again) as its likely the saw bench will see some use outdoors.
The next day, after the glue had dried I found a short crack in one of the pieces probably caused by the wood moving in its new climate and being glued, I guess something had to give. I cut and squared off the end back to good wood leaving just over 30" - plenty long enough.
The cut off waste piece showing the crack that developed after gluing up the top. I should have waited a week or so to let the wood become acclimatised with it now coming inside a heated house from outdoors at the wood yard.
Flattening the saw bench top using my no#6 and no#4 bench planes, across the grain, diagonals and lastly with the grain. I will do a final smoothing once the bench is assembled.
After cutting four 22" long pieces for the legs, I set my bevel gauge to 100 degrees to give the legs a 10 degree angle and marked out the joinery where the saw bench top will sit.
Placing the piece in the vice at an angle so that the saw stays plumb while sawing the angled cut. The piece of wood in the vice to the left is to stop the vice racking. Remember to save the waste pieces for the bench top glue up.
Using my new 1.5" chisel and shoulder plane to clean up the  angled shoulder joints.
The saw bench top joinery for the legs.
First dry fit of the legs - its starting to look vaguely like a saw bench. Later I will need to plane down the saw bench top to allow the legs to sit flush. I should have cut longer (deeper) joints in the legs. I am kinda making up the measurements as I go along - doh!
Marking out a recess in the legs to accept a lap jointed stretcher.
The sides of the recess are sawn and the waste chiselled out. Those new chisels I rescued last week are already earning their place in the toolbox.
Glueing the leg stretchers, the saw bench top is used to ensure the leg assembly remains square. I had also earlier cut the ripping notch. Unfortunately, this difficult cut was longer than the 4" deep blade of my large tenon saw so I had to resort to my pullsaw for the final inch or so.
Flush cutting the stretcher and leg lap joints.
Using a block plane and sand paper to break all the corners and remove all the glue and pencil marks.
Using the waste pieces from the leg shoulders to aid the clamping process for gluing up the  saw bench top to the angled legs.
One clamp for each pair of legs and a large heavy butchers block for some extra weight and left overnight to cure.
At this stage my plan to build the saw bench entirely from 2"x2" timber changed. I had a 5 1/2" piece of Pine absolutely perfect for the upper leg braces. Oh well best laid plans and all... Marking out the leg angles.
Despite this being a crosscut, I found it easier, faster and more precise using my large Tenon saw, I guess the 5 1/2" board is slightly too wide for the 11" blade of the carcass saw.
Using bench planes to remove cupping from the upper leg braces. I only bothered with the side that mates against the legs.
Laying out the screw holes. Six scres per brace, three holes per side. Half the leg thickness (1") from the top and bottom and in from the side. The third hole is exactly between the top and bottom ones found using deviders ... a lot of effort but first bite is with the eye.
Using my brace to very carefully and slowly drill the counter sink holes for the screw heads followed by the pilot holes with my hand drill.
A smidgen of glue to make it bomb proof!
Leg braces glued and screwed - yet more squeeze out to clean off.
Screw holes plugged using small lengths of dowel.
A final light sand to remove excess glue and a coat of boiled Linseed oil - Done!
Ripping notch - I love the grain pattern.
Leg stretcher joint
Plugged upper leg brace
Saw bench trimmed to height using my knee as a gauge with 10 Degree angle on the leg bases so each leg sits flat.
At this stage the saw bench is basically complete and functional. I might later put screws in the saw bench top joints and also in the stretchers, but Im hoping the glue joints will be strong enough. Also a 3/4" hole for a holdfast might come later.
I have to say despite the time involved, considering a saw bench should be a simple project, I really enjoyed making it and once again learnt a hell of a lot. Especially as a lot of the mark up and cuts were not at the standard 90 degrees. This project felt like real old school traditional wood working, almost a right of passage! 
When I first started this blog only a short while ago I decided to buy a beginner bench as I didnt think I would be able to build my own. This saw bench build has certainly got me thinking ... and with my increasing skill level ... who knows my very own Roubo workbench may not be that far away....
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Make a table saw miter sled

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Many of you may remember a miter sled video I made a while back. Although the sled worked, I always thought that it was an unnecessarily complicated way to build it.
Since I seem to be getting backlogged on pictures that need framing, I built a new miter sled this week. It is much easier to make than the old one. And youll get perfect mitered corners every time!
Plans:
  • SketchUp design
  • PDF plans
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Homemade band saw

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Im sure many of you are familiar with Alex Harris, The Teen Woodworker. His latest project is simply astounding. Yep, he built his own band saw! Check out Matthias Wandels plans at Woodgears.ca.
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New Tenon Saw

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After much research and deliberation I have finally got myself a shiny new and very large Tenon Saw. 
For ages I have felt like I have needed something bigger than my Lie Nielson Carcass & Dovetail Saws, but I couldnt decide on the size or whether it should be sharpened Crosscut or Rip. 
As far as size goes, it seems the wood working superstars recommend something at least 14" and preferably larger.
Most of my cutting is to length and therefore requires a Crosscut sharpened saw but larger tenons require a Rip sharpened saw and my Dovetail saw blade is only 1-5/8" (4.12cm) deep. I certainly didnt want to buy another two saws, so which saw would provide the best coverage and compliment my existing joinery saws? 
I came to the conclusion that I should get a Rip sharpened saw which could also be used across the grain if required and decided on the Lie Nielson 16" (400mm) 11ppi Tenon saw (reviewed here). 
As I found previously, I had to spend a while learning to use the new saw as it initially jumped about in the kerf. This is a large saw and a lot heavier than what Im currently used to. The weight, combined with the extra height of your hand above the cut (blade depth) and the angle of the (dangle) handle meant I had to saw very slowly and steadily not applying any downward pressure at all other than the natural weight of the saw while my body became familiar with the movement. After quite a few rip cuts in some scrap Pine I finally got the hang of it,  and found the saw to cut fast and track straight as an arrow. No doubt I will further improve the more I use the saw. 
I was also pleasantly surprised at how smooth cutting the saw was when cutting across the grain, I will certainly be able to cut wider and thicker boards to length on the bench hook when my Carcass saw is struggling. Anything that is to big for this new 16" beast can then be handled with my panel saws.
So ... all in all I feel it has been a good purchase and my Trinity of Joinery saws should encompass all my needs, probably for the rest of my life! In fact I would say that my nest of saws is now complete.
I would be very interested in other peoples opinions on my purchase and what saws other people use.
An afternoon of boredom led me to find a use for some kitchen surface chip board and some old reclaimed pieces of Pine to make a quick and dirty bench side saw stand. Its not pretty but it did get my freshly sharpened saws off the floor and out of harms way.
Other new additions to the tool collection, once again courtesy of my girlfriends mum. These include two Marples chisels 1" & 1.5", the larger of which is very rusty. I will probably use these for jobs such as cleaning off dried glue etc. saving my Stanley chisels for best. Id love some Lie Nielson chisels one day they look gorgeous!
A fret saw (needs de-rusting) and pad saw (no blade) and a small mallet. The mallet head is actually made of a roll of wood and will make a good assembly hammer.
Anyway thats enough for now... time to build something soon!
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Unique viewer projects bird saw box and a convertible pool table

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David P. from Kansas City went through a lot of research and development to build this pool table. It flips over when not in use and becomes a dining table! I dont think Ive ever seen anything like this before. David got Best in Show at his high school for this woodworking project. Hes a Junior. Wow...thats ambitious.
Bruce in Rossmoor decided to try his hand making his first bandsaw box. One thing led to another, and he ended up making a nesting set. Perfect, because while making it, he realized it looked like a bird. Adding the eye, was inspired. First box? Wow...more ambitious woodworking! Thanks guys.
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Table saw outfeed support

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For several years Ive been saving a bunch of rollers a neighbor gave to me. Since my new table saw is higher than my old one, I decided to make some outfeed supports that will sit on my workbench at the same height as the saw. Im happy with this simple solution. I can arrange the rollers around however I might need them, and the stands are easy to store.
Its a short video, but I really wanted to make these because I am going to start building my new router table this weekend. Its crazy how many different designs Ive sketched up, tossed out, then gone back to. Ill be letting you know more about it as the week goes on.
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Coping saw jig

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Everyone seems to be making Tims three-piece puzzle. Dattatreya Parupudi posted his a few days ago on the Mere Mortals Facebook page. Dattatreya doesnt have a bandsaw or scroll saw, so he cut it using a coping saw and chisels.
He then posed the question: "How can I cut straight lines using a coping saw?"
Well Tim Sluder actually has a coping saw jig! This is pretty cool. If you like, heres a PDF version.Here are his instructions: 
The jig, works best when clamped in a vice or screwed to awork bench. Coping is a two-handed operation that iswhere this jig helps. You have to keep turning your workback and forth to get a straight line as you saw. Well, asclose as you can get due to the blade flex. Make sure to lubethe saw blades to aid in cutting and preventing brokenblades. This jig can be used with a jeweler saw or files.These jigs are easy to replace as they wear out. I used thistype of jig when I was in high school(1975), we used ajeweler’s saw to make jewelry out of coins. Try cutting outthe face on a dime. Let your imagination be your limit.Enjoy.
Finally, there was a question about a couple dimensions in Tims design. He has updated it. Here is the new plan.Thanks guys!
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Make a miter sled for your table saw

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I didnt have time to work on a project last weekend but spent a lot of time this week figuring out what I wanted to make this weekend. I think Im going to make a bed tray for a laptop computer. Basically, a breakfast-in-bed kind of tray. I had a viewer ask me about such a tray a while ago, so I decided to make it.
As I played with the design, I realized I would need to make mitered corners. Every time I think about making miters, I cringe. Especially since this tray is going to be made with oak. I have a notoriously difficult time making decent miters in oak using my miter saw.
So this morning I decided to finally make a miter saw sled for my table saw. Its a project Ive been meaning to make for years.
This was the fastest project and video I ever put together. I prowled through my wood and started building this around 11:00 this morning. I built it, shot the video and finished editing it by 4:00! Woohoo!
And its one the the most useful jigs I have ever made. It is incredibly simple to build, yet extremely accurate. There are a lot of different kinds of miter sleds, but mostly I just need to cut 45 degree angles. So if making picture frames drives you crazy, give this sled a shot.
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A Sight 4 Saw Eyes

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Its a happy day! After waiting for over 3 weeks, I finally have my saws back from being sharpened.
As mentioned previously I have been given some saws (1,3 and 4) which I promptly de-rusted, cleaned and oiled and sent off for sharpening as follows:
1. Warranted Superior 26" - 5ppi RIP
2. Sandvik 22" - 10ppi RIP
3. NoName 21.5" - 8ppi Crosscut
4. Warranted Superior 20" - 10ppi Crosscut
All saws have been jointed flat and resharpened and set, each costing £10.50. I will get myself some files and a saw  set to learn to do it myself eventually but for now, for just over £40 I should be able to cover most of my larger sawing requirements - bargain! 
Unfortunately, the guy who normally does the sharpening has been on holiday, hence the delay, the service normally only takes a week. If anyone in the Surrey area is interested, the company who carried out the sharpening is Winsor Saw Ltd of Windsor 01753 862029, but you can also drop off and collect saws from  Village Mowers in Hersham, Surrey 01932 248538.
Aside from my Lie Nielson backsaws (a crosscut carcass saw and a dovetail saw), which I use all the time. I still need (would like) a larger tenon saw. Common sense suggests something like a 400mm 10ppi rip saw as the largest cuts are with the grain when cutting a tenon, but would it still be suitable for making precision crosscuts when my carcass saw is a bit small ... or should I just try and do precision cuts with the panel saws above ... decisions decisions.
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Scroll saw box and more on the redwood

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Ive basically been puttering in my shop today with no clear idea of a project to make. I decided to try and make the worlds tiniest band saw box. Well, maybe no record, but its a pretty good exercise using my scroll saw, not a band saw. So I guess its technically a scroll saw box. I just finished gluing it up. Later Ill sand it and finish it. Heres the rough box:
And the drawer:
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I want to do something with this cool chunk of redwood. If you have any ideas, let me know. Have any of you carved large chunks into something? Im thinking about getting an angle grinder and giving it a shot on this.
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Wood bits
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